I’ve given this series its rather ominous title to make the point that our relationship to the vehicle is one of mastery over a sometimes wildly uncontrollable monster. Not that we have to be afraid of it, we just need to learn how it behaves and to respect its potential for endangering our lives. Okay, climb into the driver’s seat and let’s look around.
Now that you’re settled in your seat let’s make some adjustments.
Finding a good driving position is a matter of personal preference, but there are some important considerations. For driving long distances you’ll find it more comfortable to position the seat so that the backs of your thighs are supported and your back, both lumbar and shoulder regions, are in contact with the seat back. Depending on the vehicle and your physical size, this may require supplemental seat padding. If you plan on driving a lot don’t skimp on this.
When you're properly seated, position yourself relative to the steering wheel and the pedals; this may also require some supplements particularly for the pedals. Your hands should comfortably attach to the wheel at a point midway up each side. This is the “quarter to three” position, for those of you who still remember what an analog clock looks like. Your elbows should be relaxed, a little away from your sides. I have too often seen drivers with both hands atop the wheel and elbows almost, or actually, touching it. Stop and think about this for a moment. One’s body must be perilously close to said wheel in order to accomplish this. Not good. Also, with hands in this position, an impact that deploys the airbag will drive both arms back into the driver’s face probably breaking some arm bones in the transition. Some people drive hunched over the steering wheel with their knees almost touching the steering column, I can pretty much guarantee they become fatigued after relatively short distances. Moral: a fetal position is not the best driving position.
Going back to your hands: keep your thumbs on the up side of the steering wheel, not wrapped around it. With power assisted steering this is not as big an issue, but if something happens to the front end of your vehicle that yanks the steering mechanism hard left or right, a wrapped thumb could be sprained or broken by the crossbar. Now that you and the steering wheel are acquainted, the mirrors are next.
There's lots of talk about blind spots when you drive, there's even a hokey ad on TV (I won't bore you with the details), but I believe most vehicles do not have a blind spot if your peripheral vision is normal and your mirrors are properly adjusted.
The outside mirrors should be positioned so that an approaching vehicle appears in your peripheral vision as it disappears from the mirror. This means that, from your normal driving position, you cannot see the sides of your own car in the mirror. This adjustment takes time but it’s important. For the passenger’s side mirror, lean over till your head is right near the passenger seat and adjust the mirror so that you can just barely see that side of the car. Now lean to the left till your head touches the window (you can wipe the skin oil off later) and adjust that mirror so that you can barely see the side of the car. That will give you a good starting point. For the interior mirror, adjust it so that it points a bit toward the passenger’s side of the rear windows.
Once the interior and exterior mirrors, are properly positioned, a vehicle will appear in the side mirror just as it disappears from the interior mirror. It will appear in your peripheral vision just as it disappears from the side mirror. You can fine tune the mirrors on the highway.
Last, and perhaps most important, Buckle your seat belt. SRS on the air bag systems means Supplement Restraint System, not Sole Restraint System. If you think it's foolish or too much trouble to buckle up, you don't need to be reading this blog.
Tuesday, February 21, 2012
Sunday, February 19, 2012
Intro and Some Fundamental Truths
Introduction
I average about 50,000 miles a year in four different vehicles. I’ve been driving for 56 years, 54 on the roads of the world. What I’m going to do here is lend some of my experience to the work of managing a moving vehicle, whether it’s the family car, a motor home, a truck, or some sporty toy you take out of its cocoon only when the sun shines. I am not affiliated with any safety councils or associations so what you find in these posts is from my experience alone. I hope it helps you be a better driver.
About Tires
1- Connection to the planet. When you are zipping along in the vehicle of your choice, your tires are the only things touching the earth. Ponder that a while. Four small patches of a rubber composite less than a square foot each.
When I was a teenager, I bought recapped tires for my rusty 1950 Ford, much like trucking companies use on tractor trailers. You’ve all seen remnants of them along interstate roads. When one of them comes apart on the big rigs there are many other tires on the road to mitigate any loss of control. When one comes apart on a 1950 Ford traveling at highway speed, it’s a much different story. It is a scary experience trying to stop the beast when one of it’s feet is broken. I was lucky to accomplish it without losing control. I decided then that I would always buy the best tire I could afford. I have had no tire trouble since.
2 - Air. Tires need it, but how much? If you go by the car manufacturer, the amount might be a little low (lower pressure = softer ride). There was actually a big flap a decade or so back when Ford Explorers (I believe) started having tire failure issues. One problem turned out to be they recommended something like 26lb pressure in the tires. When the vehicles were driven for a time at highway speeds, the tires overheated and nasty things happened. The guys at CAR TALK can help with this.
A number of years ago a friend asked me to check out his '66 Corvette because it was fishtailing wildly on acceleration (how can a guy not want to light them up with a 'Vette?). After checking it myself (what can I say?) I checked the tires. The pressure in the rear tires differed by about ten pounds, a dangerous situation in any vehicle but deadly in one with a limited-slip differential, standard equipment on this car. I made sure all tires were properly inflated, rechecked the acceleration and returned the car safer than before.
So, think about your tires. Buy the best you can afford. Check them frequently for wear and inflation.
Stay safe.
I average about 50,000 miles a year in four different vehicles. I’ve been driving for 56 years, 54 on the roads of the world. What I’m going to do here is lend some of my experience to the work of managing a moving vehicle, whether it’s the family car, a motor home, a truck, or some sporty toy you take out of its cocoon only when the sun shines. I am not affiliated with any safety councils or associations so what you find in these posts is from my experience alone. I hope it helps you be a better driver.
About Tires
1- Connection to the planet. When you are zipping along in the vehicle of your choice, your tires are the only things touching the earth. Ponder that a while. Four small patches of a rubber composite less than a square foot each.
When I was a teenager, I bought recapped tires for my rusty 1950 Ford, much like trucking companies use on tractor trailers. You’ve all seen remnants of them along interstate roads. When one of them comes apart on the big rigs there are many other tires on the road to mitigate any loss of control. When one comes apart on a 1950 Ford traveling at highway speed, it’s a much different story. It is a scary experience trying to stop the beast when one of it’s feet is broken. I was lucky to accomplish it without losing control. I decided then that I would always buy the best tire I could afford. I have had no tire trouble since.
2 - Air. Tires need it, but how much? If you go by the car manufacturer, the amount might be a little low (lower pressure = softer ride). There was actually a big flap a decade or so back when Ford Explorers (I believe) started having tire failure issues. One problem turned out to be they recommended something like 26lb pressure in the tires. When the vehicles were driven for a time at highway speeds, the tires overheated and nasty things happened. The guys at CAR TALK can help with this.
A number of years ago a friend asked me to check out his '66 Corvette because it was fishtailing wildly on acceleration (how can a guy not want to light them up with a 'Vette?). After checking it myself (what can I say?) I checked the tires. The pressure in the rear tires differed by about ten pounds, a dangerous situation in any vehicle but deadly in one with a limited-slip differential, standard equipment on this car. I made sure all tires were properly inflated, rechecked the acceleration and returned the car safer than before.
So, think about your tires. Buy the best you can afford. Check them frequently for wear and inflation.
Stay safe.
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